I spent 2 days in Krakow, Poland = beautiful city but mixed history: Oskar Schindler's (List) factory is not just a museum, but a reliving of WWII history; then a 'pilgrimage' to Auschwitz-Birkenau, the Nazi death camp - pictures speak the horrible pain + death so many millions met there. Lighter note was an excursion to the salt mines: chapels all carved out of salt caverns: skill + artistry + faith!